15th C. Burgundian Gown

c. 1450-1480s

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Period Examples:

c. 1499 - The Goldsmith's Shop by Petrus Christus

Note that there is a VERY subtle indication of an extremely sheer partlet maybe around her neck under the dress?  I'm considering this a transitional dress from the Houppelande to the Burgundian.

c.1450 - Portrait of a Female Donor by Petrus Christus

Also a transitional dress from the Houppelande to the Burgundian, this has the deeper V of the Burgundian and the more fitted, set-in sleeves.  But is still a very full version.

c. 1455 - Portrait of a Lady by Rogier van der Weydan

c.1463 - Detail from The Presentation in the Temple by Hans Memling

c. 1464 - Portrait of a Woman by Rogier van der Weydan

c. 1469 - The Last Judgment by Hans Memling

Note the open, trimmed sleeve seams, and the beaded/pearled edges of the veil.

c. 1470 - Tommaso Portinari and his Wife by Hans Memling

c. 1470- Portrait of an Old Woman by Hans Memling

c. 1478 - The Donne Triptych by Hans Memling

A deep purple burgundian with fitted sleeves.  (Girl behind wearing an open-laced kirtle over a red underdress or stomacher, not a Burgundian).

c. 1482 - Wife of William Moreel by Hans Memling

Reproductions:

Links:

General Information

• A Detailed Account of the 1460-80 Burgundian Gown at Festive Attyre, indcluding description of all pieces worn with it.
• "Understanding Houpelande and Burgundian Clothing Construction" by Mistress Corisander Seathwaite including pattern shapes and sleeve styles for the Houpelande.

Patterns

• Burgundian Pattern Pieces at SevenStarWheel.com