16th C: Early German-Saxon (Cranach) Gowns
Gowns of early 16th Century German-Saxon gowns made popular by the paintings of Lucas Cranach the Elder.
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This is one of the paintings that makes me think that the white part of this ensemble is not a chemise, but a separate piece of fabric, and white to show off the lacing. Here's why: look at the detail of the pleats on the men's clothing - particularly the detail paid to every tiny ruffle and fold of his shirt. Now look how the white part of her gown is perfectly flat. I don't consider this to be a lack of detail, but that white piece has GOT to be flat, anyone who has laced up over a chemise knows that no matter how fitted it might be, it's just not going to lay flat like that. Also, the ties on this gown are parallel to one another and do not appear to be spiral laced, but perhaps laced with 3 separate laces tied in the way many detatched sleeves are - but don't ask me where the ends are. And here's another thing that I noticed - look just below the bustruck. there seems to be a section of darker line - now I don't think this is the artist drawing a thicker line, I think this is another lacing that is mostly covered by the bustruck, and that the lacing goes all the way up to just under the bust.
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More Gowns, but I don't know the dates...
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Middle & Working Class Women (Non-Court)
One of the fewer images of the back of this gown style, though this seems to be worn on a lower (ie middle) class woman - note the undecorated sleeves and the black guards rather than gold. This skirt is also less fully pleated, and appears to be pretty obviously sewn into the bodice. The lower "necklace" may be a line of the very sheer chemise. |
Links:
General
Costume Blogs
In Film:
- The Friesian Frock Girl: Costume in Saxony - great analysis of several paintings - and proof that this wasn't just a dress of Cranach's imagination!
- The Friesian Frock Girl: Middle and Working Class Saxon Women - yes, there is a difference!
Costume Blogs
- Hartwood Castle: 1530s Saxon Gown
- Crimson Vision: Cranach's Magdalena - probably the best recreated gown in this style ever. Tracy is AMAZING! Also see a write-up on her how-to on the Festive Attyre site HERE.
- Naergi's Costuming Site: Cranach Gown - Has a great STUDY page with an interesting, different theory on the construction of this gown, but also follow along her progress on each element of the ensemble.
- Fröhliche Frau: Cranach Gown
- Research Dumping Grounds - a collection of research images and analysis, along with the shapes of the patterns, etc.
In Film: