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Hispano-Flemish Women (c. 1480-1530)


Period Images:

Picture
All women are wearing the Saya Verdugada  which is a predicessor to the farthengale, and made with applied strips sewn to the outer garment and filled with a braid or cord of aprox 1/8" thickness, or 1/4 round basket weave.  They may also have on a bum roll. (Woman on Right) The striped chamisa has scallopped sleeves. (Woman in Red) is wearing a velvet gown with a floating stomacher which may be pinned to her embroidered chamisa. 
Picture
This woman is wearing a white Habito over a black partlet and has trim around the sleeves.  Her hair is taped around the back of her head.

Reproductions:

Picture
Hispano-Flemish Kirtle by Dona Beatriz Aluares de la Oya. Image from: http://www.spanishseamstress.org/, used with her permission.
Picture
Hispano-Flemish Kirtle by Dona Beatriz Aluares de la Oya. Image from: http://www.spanishseamstress.org/, used with her permission.

Links:

Class Handouts
  • "She's Got the (Hispano-Flemish) Look" (PDF) - an overview of women's fashion in Spain c. 1480-1530, a/k/a Isobellan Spain, by Dona Beatriz Aluares de la Oya.  This handout was from a class that I took at Pennsic XL.
  • "Weird Fashions of Spain" (PDF) - Fashions for the Adventurous c. 1480-1530 by Dona Beatriz Aluares de la Oya.  This was a handout from another Pennsic XL class.
  • "Spanish Sleeves" (PDF) - A survey of Hispano-Flemish style sleeves by Dona Beatriz Aluares de la Oya.  Handout from Pennsic XL.
General
  • Gallery of 15th C. Spanish Images - Jessamyn's Closet
  • Gallery of early 16th C. Spanish Images - Jessamyn's Closet
  • Spanish Seamstress - lots of information on SCA period Spanish garb, by Dona Beatriz Aluares de la Oya
Saya Verdugada
  • Short History & Construction of the Spanish Farthengale by Baroness Briana Etain MacKorkhill - intended for later period (mid-16th century), but this is perfectly adaptable for the skirt of this garment.

Reading:

Highly Recommended
  • Anderson, Ruth M. Hispanic Costume 1480-1530.  New York:  Hispanic Society of America, 1979.  {I have this book - it's gorgeous and extremely informative!}
More Reading
  • Bernis, Carmen.  Indumentaria medieval Espana.  Madrid:  Instituto Diego Velasquez, 1956.
  • __.  Trajes y Modas en la Espana de los Reyes Catolicos.  Madrid:  Institute Diego Velasquez, 1978.
  • Ferrandis, Jose.  Datos Documentales para la Historia del Arte Espanol:  Inventarios Reales  (Juan II a Juana la Loca).  Madrid:  Instituto Diego Velasquez, 1943.
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